Jim Whittaker Dies at 97: First American To Summit Everest and REI Leader
Image: Yakima Herald-Republic

Jim Whittaker Dies at 97: First American To Summit Everest and REI Leader

08 April, 2026.Sports.15 sources

Key Takeaways

  • First American to reach Mount Everest summit in 1963.
  • Died at age 97 at his Port Townsend, Washington home.
  • Led outdoor retailer REI as executive and helped shape Northwest outdoor culture.

Historic Ascent

He climbed alongside Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu in 1963.

Image from BBC
BBCBBC

He was the 10th person to reach the summit, 10 years after Hillary and Norgay.

Conditions were harsh, with strong winds and extreme cold.

He was awarded the Hubbard Medal by President Kennedy.

Outdoor Legacy

Whittaker was REI's first full-time employee and later served as CEO.

Membership grew from 250,000 to over 900,000 during his tenure.

Image from Cachicha
CachichaCachicha

He helped establish multiple national parks and wilderness areas.

He remained connected to mountaineering throughout his life.

Political Ties and Personal Impact

He led Kennedy on a climb of Mount Kennedy in 1965.

He was state chairman for RFK's campaign and in the hospital room when RFK died.

His son Leif reflected on a legacy of adventure and stewardship.

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