Sports08 April, 20261 min read
Jim Whittaker Dies at 97: First American To Summit Everest and REI Leader
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First American to reach Mount Everest summit in 1963. Died at age 97 at his Port Townsend, Washington home.
Historic Ascent
Jim Whittaker was the first American to summit Mount Everest at age 34. He climbed alongside Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu in 1963. He was the 10th person to reach the summit, 10 years after Hillary and Norgay.
Conditions were harsh, with strong winds and extreme cold. He was awarded the Hubbard Medal by President Kennedy.
Outdoor Legacy
Whittaker was REI's first full-time employee and later served as CEO. Membership grew from 250,000 to over 900,000 during his tenure.
He helped establish multiple national parks and wilderness areas. He remained connected to mountaineering throughout his life.
Political Ties and Personal Impact
Whittaker was a close friend of Robert F. Kennedy.
He led Kennedy on a climb of Mount Kennedy in 1965.
He was state chairman for RFK's campaign and in the hospital room when RFK died.
His son Leif reflected on a legacy of adventure and stewardship.