For first time since war began, Israelis return to once-dangerous Lebanon border lookout

For the first time since the outbreak of the war, the IDF has allowed civilians to visit the Security Zone Lookout atop Mount Dov along Israel's northern border, a site that had been closed because of the threat of anti-tank missile fire from Lebanon. The reopening follows the destruction of Hezbollah's underground infrastructure along the Ali Taher ridge, which overlooks the area and had served as a command and control center for the terrorist organization. According to the military, operations against the infrastructure have significantly reduced the threat that previously prevented civilian access. The lookout, established in 2017, commemorates the history of Israel's former security zone in southern Lebanon, where Israeli forces operated from 1985 until their withdrawal in 2000. Now, visitors can survey the same landscape where Israeli troops fought Hezbollah during the latest war, guided in some cases by reservists who took part in those battles. The tours began during the Sukkot holiday, marking another step toward reopening areas along Israel's northern frontier that had remained inaccessible since October 2023. Similar changes along the Syrian border have also enabled visits to the historic Hejaz Railway tunnel and the Al-Hamma bridge beyond the border fence in the southern Golan Heights, following the establishment of a new Israeli security zone in Syria. On Mount Dov, the tours to the lookout and the historic Site of the "Covenant Between the Parts" are organized by the Keshet Yonatan Field School in cooperation with KKL and the Golan educational center. Some of the guides are reservists who fought in southern Lebanon and now recount their experiences to civilian visitors. One is Aharon Levy, an educator and guide at Keshet Yonatan who serves as a deputy battalion commander in the reserves. Dressed in civilian clothes rather than military uniform, Levy described encounters with Hezbollah terrorists and attacks by explosive-laden drones during the fighting. Standing above the ruins of the Lebanese Shiite village of Khiam, where he and his fellow soldiers fought, Levy pointed toward the landscape that had threatened northern Israeli communities for decades. “When you see everything from here, you understand why it's now possible to move around safely and why this is the quietest and safest the Mount Dov ridge has been in 30 years,” he said. “Take Khiam, for example. It was a Hezbollah Shiite village that completely dominated the Israeli communities in the valley: Snir, Dan, Dafna, She'ar Yashuv, Kfar Yuval and others suffered direct hits from there day after day because they were on the front line.” He recalled the strategic significance of the village during the 2006 Second Lebanon War. “Back then, the IDF didn't believe there was any chance of entering the village and operating there. Today, it's destroyed,” he said. “When you look down from here, you say to yourself, ‘We accomplished something. We changed Israel's security doctrine.’” Elazar Paley, director of the Keshet Yonatan Field School, explained why the lookout had remained off-limits for so long. “Until now, visitors weren't allowed to reach the Security Zone Lookout because we're directly visible from across the entire eastern part of southern Lebanon,” he told ynet. “Hezbollah could have launched an anti-tank missile from the Ali Taher ridge or its tunnels at a bus or a group of Israeli civilians in an instant. “The threat was simply too great to allow civilians into the area, especially large groups. This is the first time since the war began that civilians have been allowed back. It's unprecedented.” For Paley, the return is deeply personal. “From here, you can see the entire security zone where we fought in the past, with all the stories of the outposts, including Beaufort and Reihan, as well as all the fighting that took place here during this war,” he said. “The same villages my father fought in 40 years ago are the villages I fought in.” The view, he added, allows visitors to understand the geography of the battles and the soldiers' actions. “From this location, you can actually see where the battles took place, where the soldiers were and the acts of bravery that made it possible for us to be here today,” he said. “And now, when we stand at this point, we can look above us and see an Israeli military position controlling the area, rather than a Hezbollah tent that makes us tremble.” Among the hundreds of participants was Dorit Friedman from Haifa, who stood looking across the border at the ruins of Lebanese villages. “Standing here, I finally understand the magnitude of what happened,” she said, visibly astonished by the landscape. “You suddenly realize just how threatened we were. I hope our communities remain protected for many, many years.” The roads leading to Mount Dov have not yet been opened to regular civilian traffic. For now, access was limited to organized tours held during the intermediate days of Sukkot, with no more than four buses permitted each day. Demand was overwhelming. All available places were filled within hours, and some participants traveled from southern Israel, leaving home as early as 4:30 a.m. to arrive on time. The tour also includes one of Israel's oldest and least accessible religious sites, the Site of the "Covenant Between the Parts", which has been a destination for pilgrims for centuries. After a short but demanding climb, with participants ranging from five-year-old children to people in their 70s, another guide, Ahia Fisher, introduced visitors to a Mamluk-era structure at the site and a nearby evergreen oak tree believed to be nearly 1,000 years old. “The view from here is incredible. You can see the entire Hula Valley,” Fisher said. “According to a tradition passed down by the elders of Safed, this is where the Covenant Between the Parts took place, when the Land of Israel was promised to Abraham.” “After difficult years when we couldn't get here, we can finally visit again, with the Carmeli Brigade protecting us right nearby.” For the guides at Keshet Yonatan Field School, returning to Mount Dov represents more than reopening a hiking destination. They see it as fulfilling the wishes of soldiers who died in the fighting. Paley recalled Capt. Eitan Lemberg, an armored corps officer killed in Lebanon, who said in an interview before his death: “We fight so people can go hiking.” Levy said guiding civilians through an area where he had previously fought in uniform was especially meaningful. “For me, bringing civilians here and coming up without a uniform is something very special,” he said. “Just as I take groups to Jerusalem and visit battle sites from Israel's early years, here I can stand and tell civilians about the places where heroic battles took place.” He recalled a recent conversation with several security coordinators from communities along the Lebanese border. “I told them, ‘Guys, your world is safer now, thanks to what we did.’” Paley described the devastation he witnessed in northern Israel during the war and the military threat he said Israeli forces encountered across the border. “When I drove through Kiryat Shmona during the war, there wasn't a soul in sight. And then there was Metula, with its destroyed homes,” he said. “Once we crossed the border, the fighting began. All the areas we entered, Khiam, Beaufort, Ali Taher and others, had threatened every community down here.” He said Israeli troops found Hezbollah positions containing detailed firing information for Israeli communities. “They had positions with range cards for every kibbutz. Their objective was to conquer the Galilee. They said so openly and prepared for it seriously,” he said. “We prevented that, but at an extremely high cost. Communities are still struggling to recover as residents return, especially Kiryat Shmona, along with reservists and soldiers who made the ultimate sacrifice.” Although visitors can now reach locations that were previously considered too dangerous, Mount Dov has not been fully reopened to civilian traffic. Military warning signs remain along the steep access roads, cautioning drivers that they are entering an area exposed to anti-tank missile fire. Military personnel and tour organizers believe the threat that once made the lookout inaccessible has been substantially reduced, but visits remain restricted to holidays and specially authorized dates. Reserve officers who spoke to ynet said they were pressing senior IDF commanders to make access more widely available while ensuring that military control and security could be maintained. Military warning signs still line the roads leading up to Mount Dov, cautioning drivers that they are entering an area exposed to anti-tank missile fire. Yet those visiting the area now believe the threat is no longer relevant.